We encountered a breeding herd of about 30 elephants - and were trapped in the middle of the herd for 20 heart-stopping minutes. We'd stopped to watch two thirsty warthogs, when a bunch of youngsters came running to the trough. The warthog wasn't prepared to lose out on his drink, even when threatened and chased, and we kept watching, fascinated, until suddenly the rest of the herd arrived and surrounded us. Starting the car could have annoyed the elephants so we simply had to sit quietly, and watch. There were very young ones, always escorted by Mum and an Auntie. There were crotchety older ones, who gave us evil looks but finally decided we were no threat. And there was a young one who wouldn't leave his Mum alone but kept pestering her for a drink, while she was more intent on getting one herself, from the cement reservoir on the other side of the road - an ungainly process.